Tamil vegetable biryani

Heat the ghee and add the bay leaves, star anise, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, kalpasi and fennel seeds. Let them perfume the oil.

Add the sliced onions and fry until deep golden - this takes patience and is where most of the flavour comes from.

Add the ginger-garlic paste, then the tomatoes, chilli powder, turmeric and salt. Cook until the tomatoes break down.

Stir in the yogurt and cook for two minutes, then add the vegetables and a splash of water and cook until half done.

Add the drained rice and the mint and coriander leaves, and stir gently for a minute to coat the grains.

Pour in three cups of hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and cook on the lowest flame for 15 minutes.

Take it off the heat and rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve with raita.