Chettinad masala

Dry-roast the coriander seeds first, on a low flame, until they smell warm and nutty - about two minutes. Tip them into a wide plate.

Roast the cumin and fennel for under a minute; they darken fast. Add to the plate.

Roast the chillies, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, star anise, marathi moggu and bay leaf for a minute or two, until the chillies puff slightly.

Add the kalpasi last and roast for barely 20-30 seconds, keeping it moving.

Cool completely - grinding warm spices makes them clump and steam.

Grind to a fine powder in small batches. Store in an airtight jar.

To use: two to three teaspoons per kilo of chicken or vegetables, added after the onions and tomatoes have cooked down.